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Ireland by Geri Trotta
The thought of Irish food conjures up images of the farm-fresh produce of a pretty, pastoral landscape and an abundance of succulent seafood as befits a verdant island ringed by the Atlantic. One does not think of great chefs or contrived recipes. What the Irish do they do simply and extremely well. Yet paradoxically little of the homey nourishing fare for which the country is famed is readily available in restaurants, where most of the local sophisticates prefer their cuisine to be French or Continental. It takes a leprechaun to track down an honest Irish stew, which may explain my failure to find it on a recent visit to Ireland. But I more than compensated for that omission...
.... The next day, we checked out of Jurys Hotel, our comfortable pied a terre in Limerick, to make the lovely drive to Connemara. En route we lunched in Kilcolgan, once a thriving little port, at Moran on the Weir, a thatched-roof pub operated as a family business since 1760. Its sixth generation proprietor, Willie Moran, won the International oyster opening competition for two years in a row. Oysters, need I say, are a house specialty, and we ate our fill, supplementing them with smoked salmon, crab and trout while having another go at Smitwick's, lighter than Guinness stout....
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